Numerous Cattleyas are budding, including large standard hybrids derived from Catt. mossiae, such as C. Irene Finney and C. J.A. Carbone; compact SLC Hazel Boyd and SLC Jewel Box and similar 2x yearly blooming hybrids. Check sheaths around spikes, to make sure they are not too dried out or tough for spikes to break through.
Guaranthes (Central American former Catt species) are also spring bloomers: G. aurantiaca , G. skinneri, G Guatemalensis, and their hybrids.
Look for spikes on BC Maikai, BLC Momilani Rainbow, Epicatt Rene Marques, LC Mari’s Song, SLC Hazel Boyd.
Related species & hybrids that bloom in spring are spiked or budded: Epidendrum porpax; Oerstedella centradenia; rupicolous Laelias, including L. blumenscheidii, L. flava, L. rubescens.
Standard and mini Cymbidiums should be in bud. Maintain cool temperatures so flowers open slowly and reach maximum size, and best color (in pinks and reds).
Slender, pendant cane-type Dendrobium species (D. anosmum, D. loddigesii, D. parishii, D. pierardii) should show buds on the very short spikes along the leafless nodes of their older canes. Maintain the rest periods of other deciduous Dendrobiums a bit longer. Some, such as D. capillipes, D. bellatulum and D. senile should be showing bud formations as swellings at the nodes (old leaf axils) of the stems; D. lindleyii should be spiking. In this case, increase spraying of the plants but do not drench-water until new growth also appears.
Dendrobium kingianum and related evergreen Australian species and hybrids are at their best. If all you got was keikis (little offshoot plants) instead of flowers, you probably kept the plant too warm over the winter.
New Guinea Latouria section hybrids such as Dend. Micro Chip, Dend. Mini Snowflake, and Dend. Roy Tokunaga are spiking and blooming. Evergreen phal-type Dendrobium hybrids are in bloom or bud.
Oncidium Catatante, Onc. Wildcat, Onc. Twinkle, Onc. Sharry Baby, and other Oncidium Alliance hybrids will soon be in their glory, blooming on their ripened fall growths.
Complex hybrid Paphiopedilums (with plain green leaves and large, waxy flowers) are blooming. Keep the plants cool (nights 55F, days no warmer than 80F) so the flowers will last as long as possible. Red-toned hybrids will be more brilliant in cooler temperatures. Greens and yellows will fade if they receive too much light, but don’t make the plant suffer in the dark for the sake of the long-lasting flower; cut the blooms if you want to keep the plant in full growth, and they will last almost as long in water as on the plant.
Large multifloral Paph hybrids derived from species like P. haynaldianum, P. rothschildianum and P. philippinense are in spike and bud, and should bloom soon.
Phragmipedium species and hybrids should be in bud or bloom on new spikes, that may continue to flower all spring and summer. Flowers of newer hybrids may last longer!
Large-flowered standard Phalaenopsis that spiked in November are in bud or bloom. Compact and miniature multifloral Phals in bud or bloom may be making new side branches, and growing new roots and leaves already.
Vandas are spiking and budding, including (former) Ascocentrum species (A. ampullaceum, A. miniatum) and hybrids, Neofinetia falcata, and Rhynchostylis gigantea.
Other plants spiking or budding: Baptistonia echinata; most Dendrochilum species; Lycaste species and hybrids, including Lyc. aromatica, Lyc. Skinnerii; many Masdevallia hybrids; nearly all Phragmipediums; Zygopetalum species and hybrids, including Bollopetalum Midnight Blue.